Winter Weekend in Ontario's Near North

A post by Scott F

Good things happen when you don’t let small annoyances ruin your day. During an Ontario winter day those “small” annoyances include brutal cold, snow measured in feet instead of inches and air that makes your face hurt...

Because you love it here, that's why.

But if you battle through all that and make your way outside, good things happen. This is what I learned during a recent winter vacay with the family to the outskirts of Huntsville, Ontario. Our intention: jam as many classic Canadian winter activities as possible into a couple days.

Ontario’s natural diversity seems to unfold anytime you cruise up Highway 400 and Highway 11. Wide stretches of fertile farmland blanketed with snow quickly give way to jagged, rocky terrain interspaced with countless lakes and rivers glassed over with ice. We watched as the accumulated snow piled on the road side quickly doubled, and then tripled as we passed Bracebridge, adding to the wildness of the land.

Our first stop was to check out Arrowhead Provincial Park just north of Huntsville. Arrowhead is one of few Ontario Parks that operates at any significant capacity during the winter, offering yurts and cabins for overnight winter adventures. We weren’t staying overnight, but had come to experience the 1.3 km skating trail we had heard so much about. Despite a few weeks of varied weather conditions, the ice was near perfect as we towed my son’s sleigh through the winding trail. The trail is a truly momentous accomplishment; a tribute to the Canadian love of winter. As we huddled around a campfire following our skate it was clear how much people appreciated the park's work maintaining the trail.

Before heading out we spotted Arrowhead’s tubing hill and I simply had to take my one year-old son, Wesley, for his first downhill ride (after a test run by myself, of course). No chairlift here folks, but the walk back up the hill will help you stay warm!

We made our way south east to Cedar Grove Lodge where we would stay for a couple of nights. The resort features 19 cabins backing onto a cliff that overlooks Peninsula Lake. Each cabin is unique and features a wood burning fireplace. We picked the resort for the private cottages, and for the fact that everything is included with your stay, including meals, firewood, recreational activities and more.

The next day, after a fantastic breakfast, we borrowed snowshoes from the resort and trekked to the top of the cliff, no small feat while towing Wesley in his sleigh. From the top we could see across the lake to Hidden Valley Ski Club on the other side. Scooter, our seven year-old fur baby, was thrilled with the chance to crash through the snow. Cheers to Cedar Grove for being pet friendly!

After a two hour hike we were more than ready for lunch. The meals at Cedar Grove are nothing short of spectacular. They offer three or four options at each meal in addition to different appetizers and desserts. The food is pure home comfort food sourced locally whenever possible (including amazing bread from the local Windmill Bakery). Plus, the resort is BYOB, so you can bring your own wine or beer with you to their dining room. I went with a gut warming Blacksmith Smoked Porter from the local Highlander Brew Co. as my drink of choice for our stay.

We spent the afternoon touring the resort, checking out their games room and playing shuffleboard and ping pong. We check off another winter activity when we grabbed some hockey sticks and headed out to the resort’s skating rink on the lake to shoot some pucks around.

After dinner we relaxed by our fireplace and played some board games. The cabins don’t have TVs or WIFI which was an amazing change from our regular plugged-in lifestyle.

Before leaving the next day we asked the resort to pack us a lunch and went out to their toboggan hill to squeeze in one more winter activity.  

All in all it was a near-perfect Canadian winter adventure. So don’t sweat the small stuff, like face biting cold; get out there and experience the unique opportunities winter offers. 

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6 Things that Make an Exceptional All Inclusive Resort

A post by Scott F

“I got my toes in the water, ass in the sand.

Not a worry in the world, a cold beer in my hand.

Life is good today.”  

- Zac Brown Band, Toes

Well said, Zac Brown Band! 

As Ed stated in a previous post: sometimes you just need to party and relax. For my wife and I, a pair of new parents, working professionals and active volunteers, the statement couldn't have been more true. That's why we picked up a few weeks ago and flew to the Riviera Maya in Mexico to do, well, nothing at all but relax and enjoy.    

While we don’t do the all inclusive thing for every vacation, we do tend to go every couple of years to enjoy a period of relaxation and indulgence. We've come to know what we like in a resort and what we don’t; and yes, we’re a tad on the snobbish side when it comes to this stuff!

Naturally you look for good food, nice surroundings, a well-kept beach and facilities, comfortable rooms, fun activities, name-brand drinks, good entertainment, quality service etc., but the list below features a few special preferences we have that take a resort from great to exceptional, in our eyes. We experienced all these during our most recent stay at the Valentin Imperial Maya, a highly recommended hotel which exemplifies what we look for in an ideal sun holiday.

No reservation à la carte

Dining at diverse restaurants is part of the allure of all inclusive resorts. That said, most resorts require you to make reservations in advance. We've been to resorts that allowed you to reserve three days in advance, and those that require daily reservations. We thoroughly dislike having to take time every day to make our way to the front lobby, stand in line and reserve. At resorts offering no reservation à la carte, such as the Valentin, you just head straight to restaurant. If it’s full, you usually get a beeper to notify you of when there is an open table. This allows you to take a walk, grab a drink or do whatever you like while you wait.

Adequate pool services – chairs and towels

Oh the dreaded towel card. Some resorts require a card to take out a towel which you get back when you return it. Lose your card or towel, and you have to pay for a new one. At one resort we checked out I had a towel taken from a chair while in the pool. Several other guests reported having the same thing happen. I’d rather not stress having this happen and instead search out resorts that offer restriction-free towel exchange. Similarly, finding resorts that have adequate chairs at both the pool and beach is key.

No wrist bands

Resort wrist bands are basically the nicer version of a caste system. “Oh you have a blue wrist band, yeah, sorry you only have access to bottom shelf liquor, certain restaurants and bars, certain areas of the pool/beach...” I don’t mind having certain extravagances available to those who are willing to pay more, but some resorts have restricted so much that it no longer feels truly all inclusive.

Minimal up selling/timeshare pitching

I don’t mind being asked if I’m interested in upgrades or timeshares, but some resorts have come to rely so heavily on the income from these offerings that they inundate guests with pitches. You should, in general, beware of any “30 minute presentations,” “free upgrades” and “free excursions” you are offered, but it’s best to avoid them all together by choosing a resort that keeps them to an absolute minimum.   

No cost perks/extras/bonuses

It’s great to be surprised by something extra. At the Valentin we were continually surprised by little perks. We loved the live music, both daily in the piano bar and the addition of a live cellist one evening. We enjoyed high tea each afternoon complete with quality espresso drinks. Outdoor themed nights which incorporated food and entertainment were a hit with guests. Turn down service with small gifts like gourmet chocolates. Great!

The Mayan-themed night at the Valentin Imperial Maya

What YOU want

Take some time to think about what you would put on a list similar to the one above and search out resorts that meet your needs. Even little things like having canned beer available, drinks served in only non-disposable cups, lots of available of shade, close proximity to the airport (all true of the Valentin, by the way - have we mentioned we love this resort). This is your vacation, so try to mitigate anything that may cause you stress. Take a second to let us know what's on your list in the comments box below.

Many of the items above aren't listed on resort websites. Read reviews on Trip Advisor and use their Question and Answer feature to ask very specific questions and have them answered by the resort and other guests.  

Safe travels!

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Adventure in Ontario's Highlands: Wilderness Tours - Protecting the Wild Ottawa River

A post by Scott F.

After a wild drive across the Trans-Canada Highway, we were primed for some adventure in Ontario’s Highlands. Our much anticipated Saturday stop on our three day trip to the region was Wilderness Tours, who have been offering whitewater rafting and a variety of other activities on the Ottawa River since 1975. While we were primed for adventure, that which Wilderness Tours provided in spades, we didn’t expect to learn that there’s a lot more to the company than thrills and a cool party atmosphere.

Our day was not quite this sunny, but was every bit as extreme. Photo courtesy of Wilderness Tours.

After checking in to our clean and comfortable deluxe cedar cabin, we received a knock at the door from a man who introduced himself as Joe. What we’d later learn, and wouldn’t have expected at first glance, was that Joe was one of the most extreme men we had ever met. He founded the resort 39 year ago and had actually been one of the first to run many of rapids we’d be hitting that day. In fact, he’d named most of the rapids too.

That's Joe, President of Wilderness Tours. Photo courtesy of Wilderness Tours.

Joe was instantly friendly, describing the Real Man Travels lads as the “last of a dying breed” of adventurous Canadians and promising to show us around.

After getting settled in we made our way to “Rafters,” the figurative heart of the Wilderness Tours resort situated right on the Ottawa River. With 30 minutes before our rafting instruction, we were eager to get our gear readied up; that was before we were intercepted by Joe who insisted that then was a perfect time for our tour. So we hopped in his GMC Envoy and sped into the resort.

Joe’s formality, if it ever existed, instantly broke down into a sincerity one rarely gets from the owner of a major company. He expanded on his “last of a dying breed” statement, explaining how the changing face of Canada and its inhabitants meant a declining interest in adventure and exploration outside city limits. We later heard from our guide that Joe had started an outdoor adventure club when he was in college and at the first meeting something like 200 people showed up; you can only imagine how many less students would show up today. He took us through the history of the river, including how it was the same route Samuel de Champlain navigated three centuries earlier, and how years of use for logging had left sediment at the bottom, tinging the water tea black.

Joe also discussed how the focus of his company was different than many might expect. The Ottawa River, he described, had been developed so rapidly that the land that Wilderness Tours had worked hard to acquire over the years represented the last wild section still in existence. You quickly learn what he means by “wild” as you make your way down the river. The cottages that one would expect to dot the banks of such picturesque surroundings are simply not there to break up the wilderness. Any buildings that exist are set far back from river’s edge, by Joe’s design.

Joe’s dedication to maintaining the “last wild section of the Ottawa River” can only be truly appreciated from the water. After he dropped us off we grabbed our wet suits (highly recommended to fully enjoy the rafting experience in comfort) and went to our briefing. A quick bus ride and additional safety instruction later, and we were ready to set out.

Being in a boat going through class four whitewater rapids simply can’t be described in words. The power of the water as it crashes into and over the raft is both thrilling and humbling at the same time. Our guide, Joel, a champion whitewater kayaker, did a killer job keeping us safe and motivating us to push the raft into the most extreme circumstances. Joking around and levying some hilarious criticism at our lazier paddlers kept things light throughout what ended up being a very rainy day on the water. Some surprises awaited as well, as a member of our group who we had been berating the entire row for being the only American amoung us, hopped out of the raft just before a rapid and proceeded to “steal” a whitewater kayak from the shore. Feigning understanding of how to work the kayak, he eventually got settled and dove into the rapids. The rouse was quickly revealed as “America,” who ended up being another champion kayaker, expertly navigated the rapids, throwing in a few barrel roles for good measure, and our amusement.

Photo courtesy of Wilderness Tours.

Mid-way through the day we pulled up in a small bay for lunch. A roaring fire, hot soup and coffee were provided the moment we were out of our boat to warm our soaked bodies. The snack was followed by burgers, sausages, salads, chips, apples, cookies and more. A perfect chance to recharge.

The remainder of the day saw us hit a variety of different rapids, swimming and jumping off the raft, and stopping in for a 25’ cliff dive into raging waters.

It was easy to appreciate Joe’s focus on retaining the wild. The unbroken wilderness at the riverbank was complimentary to the raging whitewater. Cottages, marinas and other buildings would have destroyed the marvel and the sense of true adventure the river provided. We were starting to understand why Joe had poured “every spare dollar” into protecting this shoreline. The log buildings that make up the resort were built by a local craftsmen to maintain a rustic, natural feel.

Back at the resort following a shower and change the rain lifted just in time for our most extreme challenge, bungee jumping! Wilderness Tours has a crane set up for a jump 150’ over the Ottawa River. Yep, this happened:

Sammy doing the big dive

Exhausted, we tucked in to an incredible dinner at Rafters and a pitcher or two of Whitewater Brewery Farmer’s Daughter Blond Ale (quickly became our trip staple). There is no shortage of activities to fill your evening at Wilderness Tours: live music, hot tubs, a pool, basketball and ball hockey courts, a full serve bar, board games, pool tables, horseshoe pits, arcade games, special events… the list goes on.

The next morning we checked out the resort’s beach area and took a few plunges into the river from a rope swing suspended on an elevated dock.

We again met Joe, who offered to take us over to Whitewater Brewing Co., conveniently located just outside the resort on a plot of land owned by Joe and leased to the brewers. The three brewers include “the twins,” as Joe calls them, two unrelated lads with the same name, one of whom is an international finance major, turned raft instructor, turned certified professional brewer. The beer was phenomenal with their Midnight Oatmeal Stout (surprisingly approachable with great malt flavour) and Whistling Paddler English Style Ale (under-bittered for the style making it very sessionable) joining their Farmer’s Daughter Blonde Ale on our list of favourites. The guys use locally sourced hops for their beer, one of many attributes that add to the brewery’s local feel. Joe mentioned plans to turn the brewery, an old farm, into a destination with retail opportunities, which we would love to see. It already features a restaurant and tasting room.

Everything is better on a stick, part deux.

With all the work Joe has done to conserve the wild of the Ottawa River, we were surprised to hear him call himself an "unreserved capitalist." He oozes business savvy and is easy to like. It’s good to know that Joe is “on our side” when it comes to retaining the beauty and awe-inspiring majesty of Ontario and Ontario’s Highlands. Against the pressures that must surely exist to use the land and river for other purposes, it takes a specific type of person to dig in their heels for what they believe, and actually be successful at it.

Cheers to Joe and all the good folks at Wilderness Tours. Special thanks to Ontario’s Highlands Tourism Organization for having us in to explore their region. Ontario’s Highlands is, truly, Ontario’s wild child!

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7000 Lakes and Rivers, One Starbucks: Exploring Ontario’s Highlands

A post by Scott F

Seven thousand lakes and major river systems, one Starbucks. Twenty four thousand square kilometres, ONE Starbucks. Eight hundred thousand inhabitants, ONE Starbucks! Six hundred and eighteen heritage sites and buildings, ONE STARBUCKS!

Okay, I think I’ve mentioned Starbucks enough. It was just one of those stats that, as stats sometimes do, jumped off the page when I first read it. Having no major feelings about the coffee retailer, pro or con, why this Ontario’s Highlands stat stood out so strongly for me was a mystery; a scattered bunch of puzzle pieces nagging to be put together. It took a "mancation" to the region last weekend, kindly organized by the Ontario’s Highlands Tourism Organization, to put those pieces together…

The wild Ontario's Highlands!

Ontario’s Highlands stretches from Smith’s Falls in the southeast all the way to where it wraps around Algonquin park in the northwest and includes the Halliburton Highlands, Hastings County, Ottawa Valley, Land O’Lakes and Lanark County. As Sam, Chris and I made our way to our first destination we couldn’t help but note how wild the region seemed. Rocky outcrops hung over the roadsides that gave way repeatedly to lakes and rivers that were at times pristine and picturesque and at others rough and raging. Our drive, which lasted over five hours, was made up of vast expanses of this glorious wilderness, spliced with pretty small towns forged out of the rocky environments or hugged by the lakes and rivers. We didn’t enter one city, and for good reason: the region doesn’t have any! The puzzle pieces began to click together…

After a brief pit stop in the quaint town of Tweed, we were summoned by manly hunger to seek sustenance. We pulled in at The Spud Box, a strange looking orange and black building/food truck in the town of Kaladar. The second we left the car we heard the sharp voice of the owner, Jerry, berating customers from the truck, 100 feet or so away. As we got closer and could make out what was being said, we knew we were going to like Jerry. Jerry’s the kind of guy who knows he’s got a good product, and won’t hesitate to let you know with a level of sharp intensity that could easily rub people the wrong way (as he clearly has, according to online reviews, HA!). When asked to give one line to sum up his operation, he replied (censored for our more sensitive readers) “the best (fudge)ing burgers in Ontario.” And the burgers didn’t disappoint.

You won't miss this from the road

 

Back in our swanky Acura MDX (kindly provided by Acura Canada for our trip), we bombed across the Trans-Canada Highway toward Renfrew. Renfrew, as we would learn, prides itself on being the birthplace of the National Hockey League. We were lucky enough to be greeted by Ray and Brittany at the NHL Birthplace Museum, somewhat inconspicuously placed on the second floor of Renfrew’s former post office. Ray, a hockey historian of some renown, recounted how a wealthy local businessman funded four of the first five teams of the original National Hockey Association (NHA), including Renfrew’s own Creamery Kings (nicknamed “The Millionaires,” the best team name ever, due to their owner. The NHA would eventually be renamed the NHL several years later due to legal issues. The museum, small and scattered with seemly random photographs, posters and hockey artifacts, came alive with Ray’s anecdotes and explanations. He spoke with an air of pride about the players in the photographs, many of whose family still resided in the area. His enthusiasm for hockey and the role Renfrew played in its early beginnings was infectious. The pieces were coming together.

The Flying Fathers were a hockey team of priests who traveled playing exhibition games to raise funds for good works

Chris, Brittany, Sam and Ray at the NHL Birthplace Museum in Renfrew

Our night was spent listening to the iconic sounds of Canadian legend David Wilcox at the Class Axe Guitars Calabogie Blues and Ribfest. We chowed down on copious amounts of meat from the ribbers and enjoyed a few cold Steam Whistles while discussing the amazing drive and the people we’d met. The festival was held at the beautiful Calabogie Peaks Resort, and after the concert had ended and a misguided hike up the mountain complete, we found our way to our ultra-comfortable mountain condo to recharge for the next day.

Calabogie Peaks Resort

Our mountain condominium

The ribbers at the Class Axe Guitars Calabogie Blues and Ribfest

To David Wilcox: "Play Layin' Pipe!"

We spent a rainy Saturday in the care of Wilderness Tours (more on our rafting adventures in a future post) and by the time Sunday rolled around we were fully enthralled by the wild beauty of Ontario’s Highlands, not to mention a little tired and sore.


We sped the MDX along the Ottawa River and banked through the farm fields and small towns that dot the Ottawa Valley. Passing military vehicles on training (out of Petawawa, we assume), we made our way to Eganville to explore the Bonnechere Caves. Our guide, Liam, a plucky young man with an unexpectedly dry sense of humour, took us through the caves and the heroing tale of Tom Woodward, who discovered and explored the then water-filled caves in the 1950’s. Liam also took us through a fine selection of fossils from the Ordovician time period. The kids in the group loved answering Liam’s trivia questions and getting hands-on with the fossils. Us grown up kids had fun too.

Our guide Liam wears his fossil love on his sleeve

Everything is better on a stick

From there we followed the Bonnechere River into Eganville where we enjoyed a less-than-manly but absolutely delicious lunch and a Whitewater Brewery Farmer’s Daughter Blonde Ale at Frisco’s, overlooking the water. Eganville is known as the Ordovician Fossil Capital of Canada and the local Bonnechere Museum features Geoheritage walks. After checking out the museum, full of local stories and artifacts, we set out for our walk. Our guides Megan and Miranda, university students who returned to their hometown of Eganville for the summer, spoke fondly of their small town and explored its history and the many eccentricities so common to small town life. The hour-long walk took us through town and to an abandoned quarry and trench where the remnants of limestone mining spoke to the town’s past. We were able to explore fossil pits where the ground was literally littered with little fossils (how’s that for alliteration!).

Lunch at Frisco's in Eganville

View from Frisco's

It was time to start home but not before a stop at Charlie D’s in Barry’s Bay - yet another cool food truck (note, food is always manlier when it’s served from a truck. Fact). Bev took good care of us, helping us select one of over ten poutine varieties from their menu. Sam, the adventurous one he is, choose the classic while I dug into a Mexican variety. Chris opted for ice cream.

Mexican poutine

Driving home my mind went back to the Starbucks puzzle that had been assembling itself in the back of my mind for the whole of our trip to Ontario’s Highlands. As I stared out the window at the still waters on Golden Lake and belted out a few verses of Tim McGraw’s “Meanwhile Back at Mama’s” with the boys, it all came into perspective.

I grew up in a small town in a rural community and barely knew what Starbucks was until I was in my teens. I went on to live in the city for almost five years before I was drawn back to a smaller town to settle down. Small towns, usually, don’t have a Starbucks. And that was it! Those same things that draw us out of the city – room to breathe; beautiful countryside; friendly, genuine people; fresh air; adventure; disconnection; tradition – are all the things we experienced throughout Ontario’s Highlands. Jerry, Ray, Liam, Megan, Miranda and Bev along with the folks at Wilderness Tours, treated us kindly; we were enthralled by the small town stories, traditions and heritage of Renfrew and Eganville; the terrain that we drove past and hiked upon and the rivers we swam in were picturesque and wild.

Twenty three thousand square kilometres of all of the above, but only one Starbucks… go figure!

Special thanks goes to the Ontario's Highlands Tourism Organization for inviting us to experience their region. Their website and mobile app are exceptional ways to plan your next trip to the region. Also check them out on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram as they frequently run contests for trips and GoPro cameras. Follow their hashtag and use it during your adventures: #OHletsgo.

Thanks to Acura Canada as well for loaning us a Acura MDX for the weekend. It was the classiest whip I've ever taken on a road trip and the air conditioned seats, three-zone climate control and exceptional ride kept us comfortable the whole time.

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